Friday, April 13, 2012

Gutter Oil


Xu Ayi cooks for us twice a week, which is wonderful for two main reasons: I don’t have to prepare two meals a week, and we get to eat authentic home style Chinese cooking on a regular basis.

On Wednesday, she made fried duck.  She had a bit of leftover oil, and so she placed it in a bowl and set the bowl in the oven.   

(Side note: her relationship with the oven is worthy of an entirely separate post.  For now, I’ll just say that she believes its primary purpose is as an insulated cupboard to store used oil.)



Matt and I later discussed the merits of saving what is perhaps a half-cup of used cooking oil, which brought us to the conversation of gutter oil.  It’s lovely stuff.  Enterprising gangs have created a booming illegal business that deals in the reprocessing and trade of recycled cooking oil.  They dive into sewers where street runoff accumulates and skim the used oil -- plus whatever sticks to it -- that has risen to the surface.  After similarly collecting oil from restaurant garbage bins, animal fat from slaughterhouse waste, and plenty of delicious toxins along the way, they “clean” it through a series of dubious science experiments, and sell it as cooking oil to street vendors and hole-in-the-wall restaurants.   Yummy!

The Chinese government is attempting to crack down on this obviously harmful activity; just last week, they arrested over one hundred people involved in the gutter oil operation.*  It’s interesting as a foreigner witnessing this collision of entrepreneurialism, industrialization, and desperation.  Rapid economic growth begets a rapidly expanding chasm between the haves and have-nots, and the result is this strange world of swindlers whose creativity might be celebrated if it wasn’t so utterly disgusting.

In a country where people are slogging through gutters, skimming used cooking oil off the top of sewage, and reselling it for a small profit, our little half-cup of oil in the oven is looking pretty darn delicious.

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* Here’s a WSJ article with the story of the gutter oil arrests


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