Matt just switched jobs, and in between finishing one and starting the next we had just enough time for a very very mini vacation. We decided to travel on the cheap, spending less than $2 total to transport our family to the Sheshan Le Meridien resort, which is located within Shanghai district limits and is accessible by subway. It was amazing travelling nearly to the end of the subway line. I really realized how expansive this city is and how it can host over 24 million residents: there were still blocks and blocks of high-rise apartments even after travelling 45 minutes by train out of downtown. Once we arrived in Sheshan, a bit more than an hour from downtown via subway, we were greeted by hawkers selling all sorts of beach and sun paraphenalia. Sheshan is an interesting place, famous for its "mountains" (barely hills by Colorado standards) housing an old Jesuit chapel and observatory. Nowadays it's probably more popular for the scupture park nestled into the forests, the amusement and water parks, and a few resorts -- such as the Le Meridien -- that have established themselves as a destination for corporate retreats and small conventions. In any case, we got to enjoy huge indoor and outdoor pools, a playground and bouncy castle, a manmade beach (although for safety reasons we decided it best to just look and not play in the sand or stagnant water of the lake), and expansive grounds with lots of pathways along the lakeside and through the forests. Matt even ran up the mountains to check out the chapel and observatory. While it was by no means a luxurious beach vacation, Sheshan still proved to be a welcome respite from the Shanghai city heat and hustle. It's nice to know we have an option of a nearby and affordable little escape whenever we need a weekend recharge.
view of the "beach" from our room
because what resort doesn't need a giant satellite?
the cathedral and observatory on the hill in the background past the convention center
TJ loved the bouncy castle
a little wedding chapel on the hotel grounds
path across the lake to the outdoor pool and playground
Matt traveled almost
constantly through the month of December.As a reward for all of us for surviving the month on the road / stuck at
home, Tyler and I flew down to meet him at the end of his Singapore trip.We had a lovely little vacation: a nice
break from the bone-chilling Shanghai weather, great shopping and eating,
beautiful lush surroundings, and quality family time.It was a wonderful start to our holidays!
everything was so warm & tropical and NOT GRAY SHANGHAI!
posing at the botanic gardens
suspiciously eyeing the moss statues in the orchid house
enchanted at the brand new "world's largest oceanarium"
browsing the markets in Little India
riding the double-decker bus for a tour of the city
When Matt and I originally discussed living abroad, one of our goals was to not only experience that place, but also enjoy exploring other cities/countries nearby that would otherwise be harder to travel to from the states. So far, although Matt has travelled quite a bit for his job, I haven't really followed through on that plan. We joined him in Beijing for a work trip, and as a family we vacationed in Hainan and enjoyed a weekend getaway in the Moganshan mountains. But besides that, we've stayed put in Shanghai.
Well, at the beginning of August, Matt mentioned that he might travel to Sydney for a client pitch. It was a long shot if he would even go, but we tossed around the idea of TJ and I going with him. Really, Sydney isn't very close to China (it was still a 10+ hour flight). But the minimal time difference means no jetlag, which is a HUGE advantage, especially when travelling with a young kid. And since Matt's flight and hotel were paid by work, the cost of our trip down under would really never be cheaper. It's the tail end of winter in Australia right now, which means a pleasant break from the oppressive heat in Shanghai (not to mention we could avoid the incoming typhoon). This opportunity would be Val's first trip to the southern hemisphere, and TJ's first foreign adventure (not counting the two countries where she has lived). We might just have to do this!
As it turned out, Matt didn't find out he would make the trip until Tuesday after lunch. In order to make the meeting in Sydney, he had to catch a flight Tuesday night. And in order for us to join him, we had to go a little crazy. In just a couple of hours, we managed to buy plane tickets, book a hotel reservation, get entry visas, pack, and make it to the airport in time to grab dinner before boarding our flight. Whew!
Notice the one thing I did NOT do is actually research anything about Sydney. This is where I relied on one of the best benefits of being an expat: my wonderful network of international friends. I am lucky to be friends with Jane, who is not only an awesome person but also called Sydney home prior to moving to China. She sent me a fantastic email of touristy things to do and insider tips for navigating Sydney. Armed with her advice, we were ready to explore.
Unfortunately, Matt had to work some of the time (this was funding the trip, after all). So TJ and I walked around the nearby area, including a neat neighborhood called the Rocks, botanic gardens that were lush and serene even in winter, the Circular Quay ferry station, and of course the Opera House. We spent a whole day at the Taronga Zoo, known as one of the world's best. We all took a ferry out to Watson's Bay, at the mouth of the massive harbor, and hiked around before tucking into famously delicious fish'n'chips. We walked across the Harbor Bridge, enjoying the fantastic views along the way. Matt and TJ cheered on live Olympic coverage while I toured the Opera House. And as a bonus -- especially considering how hastily our trip was planned -- Matt's friend from high school and his girlfriend drove up from Canberra to join us on Sunday. As we all remarked, spending a day with friends from "home" when you live abroad is a treat. It's refreshing to talk about all of those mundane topics that feel so normal and familiar, yet are conversation non-starters in our expat worlds (the recent Nuggets trade, for example).
All in all, we had a fabulous time down under, even if it was a hastily-planned, quickly-executed trip. Our time in Sydney has rekindled our original intentions to explore this side of the globe while living here. I can't wait to plan our next adventure!
Harbor Bridge from across Circular Quay
TJ spots the Opera House
hanging out with the kangaroos
a ferry and that iconic building again
braving the wind at Watson's Bay
the Rocks neighborhood and Harbor Bridge from our hotel
the sun shined through the stormy skies for a stunning view from the bridge
First, the bad: TJ did not
like the hotel’s crib one bit. She didn’t like sleeping at night
either. Her nose – well, all of our noses – plugged up with all sorts of
treasures collected from the super-polluted air. She decided to scream at
many inopportune times, like at a sacred temple, stuck in the rain, and in
quiet restaurants. Matt headed off to a day of important business
meetings with sleep deprivation and a massive headache. Val & TJ got
stuck on a busy boulevard, unable to flag a taxi. Val forgot to pack
socks. Our intended brunch spot was overbooked. Our intended dinner
spot was too far away. Due to some bigwigs in town, security was
heightened to a ridiculous degree. It took us 45 minutes just to cross
the street near Tian’anmen Square. We arrived at the Forbidden City only
to find out that they stopped selling tickets for the day just ten minutes
prior. We walked way too far for way too long. We had a bunch of
pesky little issues with our hotel room. And to end our trip, we were
subjected to the most annoying security screening ever at the airport.
Now for some good: TJ loved
the hotel’s baby pool.We loved
the working cable TV.Matt sailed
through his various business presentations.Val found an awesome mall with the worlds longest/biggest
escalator and a store with a massive sale on socks.We got to enjoy a delicious dinner of Peking duck and other
Chinese delicacies (like sea cucumber – not
a vegetable!).Val learned that she can nurse TJ
anywhere, in any conditions.We
ate a delicious brunch with wonderful friends.We bargained down a bicycle cabbie, using our limited
Mandarin and local negotiating tactics, until we got way better than the
typical tourist deal on a sweet rickshaw ride around an old traditional
neighborhood.We stumbled upon a
quaint little Vietnamese restaurant with intriguing décor and satisfying
food.After so many trials and
tribulations, we moved through annoyance and past anger into delirium, until
every new obstacle gave Matt a clever punchline and sent Val into giggles.And due to our troubled hotel stay, we
now have a deluxe suite waiting for us . . . if we ever dare return to Beijing.
Temple of Heaven, where TJ provided a soundtrack
A rare moment: TJ awake for a photo
The Weis with Chairman Mao at Tian'anmen Square
Forbidden City lived up to its name for us
Did I mention it was freezing cold (literally)?
Peking Duck dinner with delightful hosts was a trip highlight
Lovely rickshaw ride reminded us of our Dhaka days
Shanghai represents China
the way that New York City represents the United States. Which is to say, it doesn’t. The fast pace, busy sidewalks, bright lights, international
flair – not to mention droves of tourists – make it intriguing, but I’m
sometimes left feeling that I’m getting an inauthentic experience here. I’ve been longing for something a
little more average, the Chinese equivalent of “middle America”, the towns and
people that tourists don’t typically experience.
Well, I got my wish this
past weekend when we ventured out of Shanghai with Paul, Matt’s friend and
our first guest in China.
Moganshan is a mountain 3 hours outside of Shanghai that was a popular
expat escape in the 1920s and is slowly experiencing its renaissance as a
relaxing nature retreat. As I
wandered the rustic lanes, I found myself thinking, now THIS is China. I
also found myself noticing a theme in the particular hamlet where we
stayed. Everywhere we looked,
there was bok choy on fences, herbs on grass mats, clothes on lines, wrinkles
on faces.
The whole place was
sun-dried. I couldn’t help but snap
photos of it all.
bok choy drying on bamboo poles
baskets of bok choy with a pile of dried & halved bamboo stalks
hang the laundry on one pole and the produce on another
possibly dried meat, although I didn't want to get close enough to sniff-test
Paul, an avid hiker, wanted
to go for a hike. After talking
with the hostel caretakers and some fellow guests, he chose a route illustrated
on the most rudimentary of maps provided by the hostel. “It’s called The Cakewalk,” he explained to me, “because it’s a really easy hike
and it ends at a café famous for their cake and cookies.” I was sold.
Now, had I known that the map was grossly out of scale, that Paul thinks
scaling boulders is “really easy” hiking, and that the cake & cookies were
actually famously bad, I’m not sure I
would have survived the next four-plus hours of what is surely the most intense
physical activity I’ve had in the past year. But ignorance is bliss. And thus I acquired the following photos and a true sense of
accomplishment for conquering our little Cakewalk.
It began as an increasingly steep ascent out the back door of our hostel.
Due to the poorly-drawn map, we got lost a few times. Luckily, Paul is a geographer.
Occasionally the foliage would part and we'd get a nice vista of the valley.
After going over the first mountain and back down a dirt road, we began ascending our second mountain up some stone steps through a serene bamboo forest.
This led us to our second vista, from a lookout point on a rock outcropping.
Gradually, the bamboo gave way to pines and scrub and what we'd more typically think of as "forest".
Eventually, we reached the little town of Moganshan, and made our way through the streets as they crisscrossed down into the next valley. This is where we scarfed down our mediocre lunch before taking a taxi back to our hostel . . . a ride that took 30 minutes and was over 20km.
But no complaints! I loved that after many city-slicker years, Matt & I could once again pay respect to our Colorado roots by getting active outdoors. TJ was a trouper throughout the day as she took in the sights from her perch on Matt's back. And with Paul's help, when he wasn't patiently guiding us towards our destination, we even managed to snap a family photo, our first that I can think of since the hospital shoot the day after TJ was born.
Once it was all over, I was glad the hike didn't live up to it's name as a "cakewalk." I relished the challenge to remind me that I can now reclaim my inner athlete, and between the crisp mountain air and the blood pumping through my legs, I ended the hike feeling more refreshed than fatigued. Plus, I remembered, I don't even like cake...
This is the story of a meal that became an adventure.
It all began when we decided
to travel out of town for the weekend, which of course is made more dramatic
by using public transportation, bringing a baby, and being in an unfamiliar
foreign country. I don’t want to
belabor the first six or so hours of our trip, but the important part is that
we arrived at our hostel completely famished, only to find out that their
refreshments consisted of beer and snickers. This would not satisfy. Now, a wise traveler might ask the hostel caretakers for
some suggestions of where to find food, but no no, not us arrogant fools. We just ventured out towards what we
thought might be “town” and began a long and desperate journey.
searching for food
either this is a restaurant, or things are about to get awkward
After miming various acts of
eating while completely butchering the Mandarin words for restaurant, meal, food, and eat,
the local farmers pointed us up a narrow winding road with a few houses dotted
along it. One had a beer billboard
on the front and a “welcome” sign on the open door, which to us indicated that perhaps it was a
restaurant.
our hostess
We walked in to find a precocious piggy-tailed girl
playing on her computer.
I asked her – in Mandarin,
go me! – where her parents were, and she lead us back out the front door and
around the side of the building, where a woman was bent over hacking at
something. The girl indicated to
her mother that they had visitors, and Mom gathered her duck and chicken (the
“something” previously being hacked) and ushered us back into the house.
hostess, chef, and what would become our lunch in the bowl
Soon we were caught up in a
whirlwind of herbal teas and shrink-wrapped dishes and a menu of all Chinese characters and no illustrations. As I fumbled with my iPhone’s
translator apps and Matt clumsily repeated what he thought was the Mandarin
word for chicken and Paul wondered
just how much beer could quench his hunger, the Mom-turned-chef had an
epiphany. She motioned for us to
follow her through the house to the backyard, which – lo and behold – was the
kitchen!
"kitchen"
Here she thrust various
ingredients at us as we nodded in approval. Bok choy looking
vegetable? Okay, that seems to
be the town staple so it must be locally grown. Eggs? Yes, they come in their own little
containers, sanitary and harmless.
Chicken? Well, we saw the poor thing earlier so we
know that’s fresh. And with Matt’s
recollection of the Mandarin words for rice
and beer, we finalized our order.
I’m a little ashamed to say
that once the food arrived, I was far too hungry to pause and snap photos. There were chicken feet and gristle and
all sorts of goodies chopped up into what we would recognize as meat, but it
came in a delicious brown sauce with scallions. There was a heaping pile of fresh scrambled eggs. There was sautéed bok
choy with ginger and garlic, crunchy and smooth all at once. And finally there was steaming hot
sticky rice to fill the last empty space in our stomachs.
It was nothing like we had
experienced, and yet exactly as we expected. Simple ingredients and complex flavors. Familiar tastes in novel combinations. Delicate dishes to satisfy hearty
appetites. Home cooking in
a foreign place. It was quite the
meal.
